AT PLAY

For the home enhancers, the foodies, the wanderers

Post hang-over or ponce?

Looking for a post hang-over feast or simply a place to ‘ponce’ while feeding the savage beast within? Here are a few of our favourite Parisian foraging finds…

For late night satisfaction: L’As du Fallafel:

A worthy find on Rue des Rosiers, in the Marais, just off the street of our Parisian home. Its offshoot streets remain central to the Kosher butchers and boulangeries, bookshops and synagogues. Jewish food of Eastern Europe alongside that of North Africa and the Middle East, the latter on which L’As du Fallafel bases its cuisine. If your not fond of hummus mayo dripping down your arm, may just want to sit in the bustling restaurant brimming with enthusiastic conversations and efficient, smiling waitstaff. And I don’t usually like Falafels!
Tips: Excellent value. Be prepared to cue. Huge serves, may wish to share unless your feeling piglety.
34 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris Marais

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For cold day cosiness- Cafe Hugo

In the Bastille region this little Bistrot, situated on the inner rim of the Vosges Gardens serves a deliciously rustic French Onion Soup amongst other delights. Squeeze yourself onto a minuscule table, order a quart caraffe of Chianti while you wait and enjoy the animation of Parisian conversations around you. Coffee’s damn fine too.
Tips: Excellent value. Be prepared to brush arms with your neighbors, the intimacy providing opportunity to test your command on the language.
22 Place des Vosges, 75004, Paris

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For a fluffy sensation – Le Soufflé

A soufflé sensory overload! If your a lover of these light fluffy concoctions, indulge yourself by selecting one for each course. From mushroom to cognac, my companions took their imaginary hats off to the Salmon Soufflé, mine had already been on the floor for some time. You can walk it off by climbing the Arch de Triumph stairwell tomorrow.
Tips: Tourists appear to be ushered to the back room. If you’d prefer to be seated up front ask while booking. Booking essential.
36 Rue du Mont, Thabor, Paris (near Place Vendome)

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For a quirky Hi-Tea – Mariage Frères Salon de Thé

Open noon to 7pm, an extensive tea selection ranging from the exotic to mother’s favourite. An extensive menu, we went for the set breakfast. Small pots of scrambled egg, brioche with jam, sushi roles, prawns…an interesting selection with an eye on varying cultural breakfast expectations.
Tips: Top up the kitty. Choose wisely, ask for descriptions. Again, tourists tend to be ushered to the rear. Put your best ‘don’t mess with me’ face on and insist on your preferences if this doesn’t suit. Book an upfront table in advance if necessary.
A number of these Salons scattered across Paris. We tried 30 Rue du Bourg, Tibourg, Paris

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For a spectacular backdrop – Jules Verne

One must visit this restaurant just once in one’s lifetime and we were fortunate to share a lovely friend’s birthday here. Funky chunky up side down plates and exceptionally slender cutlery signify one’s place setting. Delicate complimentary morsels and attentive staff let one know one’s dignified place. The Degustation menus offers one an excellent choice.
Tips: One glass of wine per person with the Degustation menu. One may wish to indulge in a bottle…or two. The ‘Baba’ dessert comes with a choice of liqueur, ask to pour one’s own else one will be singing merrily upon exit, and that simply won’t do!
Tour Eiffel 6 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, Paris

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Bigger Tips:

There’s often a happy hour where favourite cocktails will come at great prices (let’s face it, that’s not hard compared to Australian prices!) along with piles of nibbles. For the truly budget conscious, heaven. Find your fave, preferably with a view of some sort and make it your local watering hole.

The wine is cheap and the house wines surprisingly good! Order a quart or half carafe and save the G&T or cocktails for happy hours.

If on a budget, avoid eateries around any of the squares, major thoroughfares, monuments or signature attractions. It’s down the back streets where you’ll find the hidden gems and authentic fare.

Order a ‘Cafe Gormande’ at dessert time and you may receive a coffee with several mini desserts, an economical way to sample dessert while telling yourself you’ve been ever so virtuous.

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Avoid fussing with your order choices. Usually limited staff and the time required to understand and grasp your request pushes out their busy schedules and leads to frustration for all.

Butter probably won’t come with your Croissant. That’s because the best are already buttery but if you need beurre , be prepared to ask several times. Same with milk for your tea.

Greet and farewell, attempt your best high school French, smile a lot and drop into the conversation that your an Australian. The French seem to be more comfortable with us and that smile will usually win over even the most jaded wait person. We are, after all, equivalent to a guest in their home.

Oh! And don’t ever eat while walking along the street, or in the street for that matter. Ever so gauche in the eyes of the French.

Would love to hear your faves and hints too!

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Benvenuto a Monterosso!

Benvenuto a Monterosso! Oh, lovely readers, I’m hearing bird song, a single church bell and the distant crooning voice of a busker on the waterfront echo across the valley leading down to sea level. The terra-cotta toned houses look like they’ve been thrown against the valley walls in the hope they’ll stick and it seems most have despite the recent flooding, repair work evidenced by just a couple of cranes.

The beach is pebbly, dear friend, it looks a tad uncomfortable though some tourists don’t seem to mind for they are languidly draped as if on our soft sands, while the more savvy sprawl on blue and white striped deck chairs under matching beach umbrellas. The umbrella hues mirror the upturned fishing boats languishing near the rocky outcrops, some of them aged and peeling, just like a few of those tourists. Clear sky and a soft hazy ocean, hard to differentiate where one begins and the other ends.

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20130618-181835.jpgPinching myself. Monterosso is definitely a worthy choice for my little sojourn, a relief because it’s not the easiest train journey if you, like me, will never be that enviable person who travels with nothing more than a backpack, velcro sandals and a vintage SLR camera slung around a neck adorned with a cheeky red scarf.

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Jostling my luggage through the La Spezia train station subway to the Cinque Terre line within just 6.75 of the 7 transfer minutes, then squeezing in with the hop on-hop off tourists doing the five towns the easy way. is not for the faint of heart. The joy of arriving on time palpable. And sweaty. And rewarded with Umberto’s huge grin. My host’s smile quickly turns to a grimace when he hoists my bag to his shoulder and proceeds to lead me to the car.

Umberto speaks not a word of English, but that doesn’t deter him from describing scenic highlights as we drive at breakneck speed around the precarious cliff-side road to my new home. A treacherous goat track winds back down to the village below, handy, though my laziness says otherwise, thighs already anticipating testosterone-fueled weight lifter outcomes.

No sooner examine my new home and contemplate the mundanity of dealing with an overdue pile of washing when Umberto’s wife Anna, who speaks three other languages but not a word of English, invites me to lunch at Il Ciliegio, their friend’s nearby restaurant. Washing will wait!

20130618-181412.jpgClassic Ligurian dishes including Antipasti Mista – assorted seafood marinated in olive oil; Pansotti del noce – tiny fish every way; mussel laden spaghetti shared from a huge cast iron pot; a swordfish steak and a fresh gelato to finish, all washed down with homemade wine. Delicious. Bellisimo!

The meal savoured under a shady Chestnut tree on a terrace backdropped with the most breathtaking ocean view, complemented with laughter at my clumsy attempts to converse, tempered by the speed with which I’m able to type into my trusty iPhone translation app.

The restaurant owners, who also speak not a word of English, later join us and, iPhone now drained, I’m content to just listen and smile right back. When Chef learns of my love for fresh cherries or ‘Ciliegio’ (the restaurant’s namesake), he plucks a bowl full of the sweet gems which we all share with a nice little sauterne and a piquant Limoncello, as the skyline faded to pink, the rest bagged for me to bring home.

Gracious, curious, warm and so very welcoming. Monterosso, the furthermost of the five Cinque Terre villages may be known more for it’s tourism and beaches than the others however it’s hospitality such as this that makes Monterosso such a worthy spot. Along with that stunning vista.

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PS: Thought my Italian was improving…until I asked for Acqua Minerale (mineral water) and was told the washing machine will be delivered on Monday…oh sweet lord…

On finding one’s voice…

Picture this. You have just been asked to finish the following:
The boy came into the dark library and…
The sky was the color of…
She fell back into the water in astonishment…
Is it true that….?
My father, you need to understand…
On my planet we…

Not going to share outcomes other than to say there was something about the new pool boy that caused the woman to fall back into …but I digress!

You’ve just been introduced to my first hour at the ‘Art of Writing’ retreat. Held at Residence Il Borgo in the lush green Casentino region of Tuscany, Italy, a place where spiritual retreats thrive and where castles, medieval monasteries and sanctuaries generate a ‘calming of the spirit’ …a blurb I recently read and with which I heartily concur. Little wonder the locals simply call it ‘the place of emotions’.

Emotional at the best of times, mine were in overdrive. Finally, a place to make sense of the thousands of post-it notes floating around in my head! Our host Lisa Clifford, an expat, down to earth, welcoming and wise, chose the setting well, thus too her supporting cast.

James (Jim) Friel, Program Leader for the M.A and Ph. D. in writing at Liverpool’s John Moores University, visiting writer at L’Universite de Rouen, France and author of four novels, a fifth due for release, was lead tutor. Lisa (Clifford) – two books under her belt including ‘The Promise’, a third on the launch pad; Morag (Anne Fraser) – 19 published Mills & Boon novels, the 20th book, and of an entirely different genre, about to launch; Deirdre Pirro – author of ‘Italian Sketches’ and regular columnist for various publications including ‘The Florentine’ an English speaking local paper and Catherine McNamara – author of ‘The Divorced Lady’s Companion to Italy’ and two Blogs; Each added personal advice and guidance  to a rich and impressive agenda.

20130618-180332.jpgFrom left: Annie, Robbie, Matthew, Susie, Sue, Liz, Susie, Jane. In front : Lorenzo (left) and Lauchlan

Collectively we learn about finding our voice, our audience and how to craft our earnestness into intelligible sentences that said audience might actually want to read. The importance of robust research, how to meld memoirs, shape scenes and a sense of place. As well, how to edit, submit, deal with rejection, market, promote and possibly, just possibly even publish…and likely remain poor but personally rewarded for the experience.

My fellow participants, a mixture of Australian and expat, an American and an expat Italian now settled in Cairo, are interesting and interested, have fabulous stories to tell and faces as confused as mine. By week’s end for most, trepidation replaced with quiet determination.

We whipped our concepts into something that may even fly, bonded over shared Ligurian feasts cooked by the delightful Umberta, who spoke not a word of English but saved by the many who have a command on Italian (how I envy them). We also milked sheep, made pecorino and ricotta cheese from outcomes, examined one of the oldest flour mills in Europe and banqueted inside the 10th-11th century Porciano Medieval Tower hosted by its gracious owner. All in a days work, well actually six days…and they went way too fast!

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We also made a pact to support each other’s book launches. Or was that just the wine speaking? Italy, Egypt the US, Australia and the UK?…I’m already saving!

Penny who deals with all things administrative and Lisa the glue that binds, thank you!

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From left:  Deirdre Pirro, James Friel, Jane, Lisa Clifford, Penny Miller and Catherine McNamara

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