Service, service…wherefore art thou?

A plea to Fierinzian restaurant owners…(and others too!)

Dear restaurant owners in the major Piazzas, I’m worried that you spend so much energy spruiking us into your refined spaces, only to leave us at the mercy of waitstaff who fail to follow through? Wine glasses begging refill, menus forgotten, requests neglected while empty tables receive rigorous cleaning attention.

Esteemed restaurant with 10 waitstaff and 40 tables, just six of them occupied; I’m worried that you failed to notice the Italian couple who quietly stood, collected their Louis Vuitton and Chanel purchases and left after an excruciating 25 minutes trying to attract your attention. Generous of them for I suspect that kind of shopping would evoke a serious thirst. I also suspect they have powerful voices. Word of mouth?

Dear little Bistro with decor rustic and welcoming, the menu authentic, the food splendid, hospitality gracious (thank you); I’m curious to know why your charming little hole in the wall was brimming with just one nationality. American? ‘Guaranteed to feel true Italian hospitality, you’ll love it’ whispered the two from an adjoining table in another earlier that day. Who, incidentally, were trying to get beers topped up while wives topped up the retail economy. Reassuring, though sad, to see ‘victim’ wasn’t our exclusive right. Word of mouth. Powerful stuff. Good tippers too those yanks.

Nondescript little cafe up a nondescript little side street, I’m worried you turned me away because you may have had to seat me at a table that could potentially accommodate more than one? Sound business decision? Noticed your tables remained empty. First day solo, a tad vulnerable, craving warmth and hospitality and hell hath no fury like a woman in that condition. Dear little bistros that did take me in? Your Trip Advisor reports just garnered more positives. Word of mouth.

Am I being ‘giudicante‘ – judgmental? There have been wonderful exceptions yes. Do we have similar issues in Australia? Absolutely. But with such glaring consistency? In my opinion, no.

You see dear owner, in a city saturated with restaurants I’m worried that you’ll be folding those chairs for the last time to the echo of the jingling pockets crowding your beautiful squares, admiring your magnificent architectural wonders and wandering your quaint cobbled streets; disappearing into the select few who actually earned the right to their patronage.

Uncertain economical times leave little room for complacency or distain. A dollar is a dollar, tourist’s or otherwise and as travelers become more discerning about where to spend their hard earned cash, word of mouth becomes ever more critical to your survival. Love your customer, love your job and do it well or get out of the industry for your not doing your country any favors.

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Corniglia and cactus toes

Cactus!

That’s what I am, cactus! Don’t you love that expression? Just trekked 4k up mountains, past cactus, through olive groves and down dales then back up more mountains to the dear little cliff-top dwelling village of Corniglia. A pathway so well travelled the erratically placed stones are shiny with wear or is that sweat?

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Breathtaking! And I’m not talking view. Though you will see that was quite spectacular by the photos, taken at intervals, for self-assurance really. Over there on that distant mountain, the reward awaits! Of the alcoholic kind.

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Meanwhile, Germans with thick brown ankles, backpacks and ski poles are zooming by. A clutch of teens in thongs (Jandals/Flipflops for the non-Aussies) are literally skipping up the path chattering away without even drawing breath. With no breath to draw of my own I bleat ‘Ciao!’ No niceties today. I pretend I’m Bear Grylls. Invincible. Nope. Not working.

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Stagger over the threshold of what I assume to be the start of the village, thrusting fist in air in defiance, I am champion!!

The rocky song running through my head I look around for a can of Solo to throw over my face and ‘slam down fast’, just to lend weight to triumph. And then I see the sign. ‘Congratulations! Your half way there’.

 

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Was it worth it? Absolutely! Did I reward myself? Yup! With a double raspberry Frappe, don’t really like Solo! The alcohol? Well, that will be my reward for floating down the 450 steps to the train station on the other side of the village without once smugly telling the tourists gasping for breath as they climb heavenward…’Congratulations! Ya half way there mate!’

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Oh Vernazza…how I love thee

Utilizing ancient crumbling cliff top fortifications to stow and revere the dead? Honoring them with the most spectacular view the village has to offer? Keeping their feet dry to be sure. The view from the window of my latest digs, tucked in midway up the Doria Castle, spreads across the whole lower village; its cliff side protection striated with grape vines and olive and fruit groves, tacked on and shackled thanks to dry rock walls held strong by an agricultural history that, day by day is sadly succumbing to abandonment for the more alluring tourist dollar. And right up there at the top, in the most prime real estate, sits again, a cemetery.

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The vista personifies exactly what one would expect of an authentic fishing village. Population 1,000; founded around 1080AD, originally a maritime base, later a fortification against Pirates and with a solid little rock protected harbor full of colorful little boats (and swimmers too, the water’s divine). Just one major thoroughfare, the Via Roma is strung with massive daisy shaped fairy lights and lined with bistrot, bars and pizzerias and the usual touristy lures, paralleled by narrow lane-ways between the multi story, multi colored villas. And then there’s the tiniest beach tucked in right behind the peninsula, access via a cave.

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20130801-102333.jpg20130801-102535.jpgTourists swamp the place by day but most disperse to the bigger villages in the eve leaving room for the dedicated, the locals and the lights of the restaurants lining the harbor to sparkle across water the color of ink.

Vernazza suffered the same fate as Monterosso in the 2011 flash flooding, here a 4 meter deep mud slide all but destroying yet saved by  the strength and character of the locals who simply and steadfastly got on with reparations. You would never know were it not for the engineers working on the water walls above the village given each of the Terre except for Corniglia sit over a watercourse, the sacrifice of nestling between protective cliffs. The locals’ tenacity reminds me of the willful ‘fuck you floods!’ attitude Brisbanites displayed earlier the same year.

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20130801-102731.jpgAs for the color of the octagonal bell tower above the quaint little church off to the side of the square with its slate scalloped dome? It variegates from a rich king island cream at sunrise to a soft dusky rose as twilight settles. Ah! proprio bella!

I love that tower.

It’s chimes shake me awake each morning!

Twice over!

Da bells! Da bells!

Geez!

 

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