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Off the beaten Parisian path…

Friends heading to Europe for Xmas recently asked, ‘Jane, how long should we spend in Paris and what’s to do?’ ‘Why at least two weeks, ideally six months, a year, forever; so much to see in this fine city!’ Said I. Pondering my frankly unhelpful Francophillian response, I gave the query serious thought:

Three days?

The Big Red Bus for a city highlights reconnaissance just to get the bearings. The Eiffel Tower’s pretty sparkles, preferably viewed from the top of the Trocadero. The Arc de Triumph and a prayer for the unnamed soldier beneath. The Champs Élysées for fabulous Xmas fairy lights, Laudree Macarons, the Louis Vuitton Flagship store, Ferrari, Mont Blanc and Sephora.

The Grand and the Petite Palais for pure palace awesomeness. Palace Opera’s ornate mirrored glitz and bodaciously luxe tassels. The Louvre – Mona’s wing. Notre Dame, stand on point zero and admire her pure majesty. Sacre Coeur up there on the hill, mounted by the stairs, followed by a wander through the artists (at non peak to avoid the hustlers). Galleries la Fayette for that stunning domed ceiling. Fueled with plenty of fortification while seated on those cute little red wicker chairs on the Bistro footpaths of course.

Five days?

Add a day trip to Chateau de Versailles for an even bigger palace fix. Napoleon’s Tomb , Place de Voges, the Musee de Orsay, L’Orangerie and Pompidou for extra hits of visual culture. A wander in the Jardins des Tuileries and Jardins des Luxembourg to park your green chair wherever takes your fancy amidst the lush gardens, ponds, statues and Sunday boules players. The Latin Quarter. Bon Marche for the pleasure of feeling your credit card’s sphincter muscle contract. Fueled by still more French fare and people watching over a glass of wine or five.

 Already ticked these boxes? Time to dig a little deeper into the less touristy fare. My top 10 suggestions:

1) Rue de l’Abreuvoir –  it would be remiss to neglect this picturesque road as you wander around Montmartre, followed by Avenue Junot, very chic and along here you will find ‘Pass-muraille’ – the man who could walk through walls.

2) The Je t’aime wall – while still in the region, wander Place des Abbesses, find the small public garden (Square Johan Rictus) and admire ‘Le mur des Je t’aime’  where you’ll find ‘I love you’ written in 311 languages…tres romantic in the city of…well um…romance? For more detail: Jacques and Jane discover the Je T’aime wall

3) Le Moulin de la Gallete – while still in the Montmartre region you’ll find this elegant sister to the Moulin Rouge. One of only two other windmills left in Paris, this one houses a rather elegant restaurant.

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Japan – a spot of lyrical waxing…

So what was the highlight of your trip?’ Aargh! How often are we asked this question? Yearning to deliver a blow by blow reminisce supported by just 500 of your carefully curated photos; scrabbling to single out specifics, all the while wondering if the querist is genuinely curious or merely appeasing the post-holiday excitement emanating from your persona? A little of all I suspect lovely readers and being the gratuitous oversharing person that I am, I’ll oblige. With not one but three!

Given my little trip was a nine-day Japan Classics with an agenda as packed as a pub on a public holiday, and covering a mere fraction Japan has to offer – just being in a country where my grasp on the language being zero was a highlight. So too, experiencing the inhabitants treating their land, each other and you with the most profound respect. Where food presentation, delivery and consummation is an artform, slurping considered a compliment and chopstick placement significant. Where Mt Fuji, a deity, is referred to as shy, where deer bow for favours, temples abound, and blossoms have profound significance. Almost 100% literacy rate, unemployment at just 4%, the second lowest homicide rate in the world. What’s not to love?

Three Highlights

1) The ‘Symphony of Light’ Kimonos

Itchiku Kubota wanted to live to be 120. That how long the textile master estimated it would take him to complete his life’s work, a series of elaborately handcrafted kimonos, which, when hung side by side, will form a panorama celebrating the four seasons and the cosmos.

At the age of 14, Kubota began studying yuzen (rice-paste resist), six years later stumbling across a 350-year-old fragment of elegantly patterned cloth in the Tokyo National Museum. ‘Trembling in the face of such mastery and refinement’ he related, he stood transfixed for three hours. ‘I encountered a source of boundless creativity which revealed to me my calling’.

Later, incarcerated in a Siberian prisoner of war camp, he observed sunsets that he hoped one day to emulate on his kimonos using the technique he’d identified on that tiny piece of cloth – tsujigahana. A complicated method of tie-dyeing embellished with intricate embroidery, elaborate brush painting, sumi ink drawing and gold-leaf application. Post-release, 20 years attempting to replicate that lost art, Kubota eventually perfected his particular technique, referred to as ‘illusionary dyeing.

Each Kimono takes up to two years to complete, an atelier of artisans to help and 40 of his intended 80, called the ‘Symphony of Light’ can be found at the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, a gallery he built to showcase the work. Hung side by side, the kimonos create a panoramic landscape, the intricacy of each taking my breath away. It will you too. His son continues the collection. Impressive!

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Temples, Geisha, hot springs and all things gold…

‘Ikura desu ka?’ How much does it cost? ‘How can you put a price on such beauty? A fair response for I’m talking about the absolutely stunning Kimonos depicting intricately detailed inked and dyed scenes that have taken up to two years to craft lovely readers. Just one of the highlights on the Kyoto to Osaka leg of the journey. Gallery’s, temples, hot springs, foods that initiate Instagram frenzy, bamboo forests, Geisha; such a culturally rich journey is this. A few highlights, all wrapped in shades of gold, with full stories for those interested in a deeper dive coming shortly:

Being blinded by The Kinkaku (The Golden Pavilion) / Rokuon-Ji Temple

Marvelling at the Tsujigahana-Dyed Kimonos in the ‘Symphony of Light’ exhibit at the Itchiku Kubota Museum, simply breathtaking. Stay tuned for the full story. (Oh! And photos sadly not permitted, this one found on Google)

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