Montmartre

Off the beaten Parisian path…

Friends heading to Europe for Xmas recently asked, ‘Jane, how long should we spend in Paris and what’s to do?’ ‘Why at least two weeks, ideally six months, a year, forever; so much to see in this fine city!’ Said I. Pondering my frankly unhelpful Francophillian response, I gave the query serious thought:

Three days?

The Big Red Bus for a city highlights reconnaissance just to get the bearings. The Eiffel Tower’s pretty sparkles, preferably viewed from the top of the Trocadero. The Arc de Triumph and a prayer for the unnamed soldier beneath. The Champs Élysées for fabulous Xmas fairy lights, Laudree Macarons, the Louis Vuitton Flagship store, Ferrari, Mont Blanc and Sephora.

The Grand and the Petite Palais for pure palace awesomeness. Palace Opera’s ornate mirrored glitz and bodaciously luxe tassels. The Louvre – Mona’s wing. Notre Dame, stand on point zero and admire her pure majesty. Sacre Coeur up there on the hill, mounted by the stairs, followed by a wander through the artists (at non peak to avoid the hustlers). Galleries la Fayette for that stunning domed ceiling. Fueled with plenty of fortification while seated on those cute little red wicker chairs on the Bistro footpaths of course.

Five days?

Add a day trip to Chateau de Versailles for an even bigger palace fix. Napoleon’s Tomb , Place de Voges, the Musee de Orsay, L’Orangerie and Pompidou for extra hits of visual culture. A wander in the Jardins des Tuileries and Jardins des Luxembourg to park your green chair wherever takes your fancy amidst the lush gardens, ponds, statues and Sunday boules players. The Latin Quarter. Bon Marche for the pleasure of feeling your credit card’s sphincter muscle contract. Fueled by still more French fare and people watching over a glass of wine or five.

 Already ticked these boxes? Time to dig a little deeper into the less touristy fare. My top 10 suggestions:

1) Rue de l’Abreuvoir –  it would be remiss to neglect this picturesque road as you wander around Montmartre, followed by Avenue Junot, very chic and along here you will find ‘Pass-muraille’ – the man who could walk through walls.

2) The Je t’aime wall – while still in the region, wander Place des Abbesses, find the small public garden (Square Johan Rictus) and admire ‘Le mur des Je t’aime’  where you’ll find ‘I love you’ written in 311 languages…tres romantic in the city of…well um…romance? For more detail: Jacques and Jane discover the Je T’aime wall

3) Le Moulin de la Gallete – while still in the Montmartre region you’ll find this elegant sister to the Moulin Rouge. One of only two other windmills left in Paris, this one houses a rather elegant restaurant.

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Jacques and Jane discover the Je t’aime wall…

Loved up couples arm in arm strolling the streets, snuggling in warm cafés, kissing on steps…it’s enough to make a girl want to adopt a perfect stranger for the day. Handsome, debonaire, with a small dog and a large smile…oh that’s right they’re taken…sigh. Instead I create my imaginary composite and just as I’m having a gay old time window shopping with ‘Jacques’ I stumble upon ‘the wall’. The ‘I love you’ wall! Or more precisely the ‘Mur des Je t’aime.

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Forgetting about Jacques I examine the wall, feel even more lonely, shed a tear then toughen up. I promised reports on the lesser known gems of Paris my friends and I will deliver! And this one’s particularly special.

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Frédéric Baron created the concept and Claire Kito, an artist who practices oriental calligraphy, assembled the script. Their collaboration resulted in a wall composed of 612 squares of blue enameled lava on which the principle languages and dialects of the planet feature in the form of the words ‘I love you’ – 311 times and in 250 languages. The splashes of red on the fresco represent parts of a broken heart, symbolizing the human race which has been torn apart and which the wall is attempting to bring back together.

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Just above is Rita Hayworth by artist Rue Meurt d’Art, and a loose translation is, “Loving is chaos… so, let’s love.” To the right of Rita you can see a ghost. That’s Ava Gardner who originally graced the wall. C’est une mystère… The monument, dedicated to love, stands in a Square at the Place des Abbesses in Montmartre. Jacques and I concur – it’s a must see for lovers, after all Paris is the city of love.

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