Paris

Born again with dessert spoon in mouth…

Today’s top three from gay Paree…

20131005-091654.jpgChecked out the National Archives. Aside from housing all the public docs from the state of France since the seventh century AD to 1958 did you know that Napoleon’s will is also stored there along with the rules of tennis, keys to the dungeons of Bastille and the declaration of human rights? A whole lot more of course. Interesting.

Could have lingered a few days and risk being personally filed under the curious Dewey system. Stately building too.

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‎Walked the length and breadth of Île de la Cité, the island on which Notre Dame sits. And then it’s smaller sister the Île Saint-Louise. Did you know that all road distances from France are calculated from the 0 km point in the square facing Notre Dame’s western towers? Tried to push the tourists off the marker and take a selfie for posterity but no joy.

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Lunched in a lovely little restaurant where a British born-again Christian (post adultery) tried to save me. Jesus was our only savior said he (between hoovering up great mouthfuls of frites because they’re forbidden back home). Nope. We are our own saviors said I (between spooning down great mouthfuls of a very nice Cafe Gourmand selection in preparation for taking flight). Did you know that if you order a Cafe Gourmand you’ll get your coffee PLUS three or four small desserts? Nice! 20131005-092138.jpg

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Tomorrow, the Passages…the quaint kind between buildings.

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Nana on a Scooter?

Saw a Nana whizzing down the Avenue de la Republique footpath on a Push Scooter and I reveled in her joy. Saw authorities taking away a homeless man’s puppy and I cried with empathy. Saw the Eiffel Tower just as the clouds made way for her hourly sparkle and I gasped in awe. Paris. City of lights and lovers and tragic and magic moments.

Six weeks to explore under the guise of ‘local’, six weeks to seek out the interesting, less touristy locales, six weeks in which to bring you, my beloved subscribers (all 441 of you whomever you are) and dear FB fans…a daily top three. Since you can’t be here beside me, a vicarious holiday will have to do. Your welcome!

Now where would you like to go and what would you like to see with me? Please share.

Meanwhile…a lovely little florist I found today.

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Post hang-over or ponce?

Looking for a post hang-over feast or simply a place to ‘ponce’ while feeding the savage beast within? Here are a few of our favourite Parisian foraging finds…

For late night satisfaction: L’As du Fallafel:

A worthy find on Rue des Rosiers, in the Marais, just off the street of our Parisian home. Its offshoot streets remain central to the Kosher butchers and boulangeries, bookshops and synagogues. Jewish food of Eastern Europe alongside that of North Africa and the Middle East, the latter on which L’As du Fallafel bases its cuisine. If your not fond of hummus mayo dripping down your arm, may just want to sit in the bustling restaurant brimming with enthusiastic conversations and efficient, smiling waitstaff. And I don’t usually like Falafels!
Tips: Excellent value. Be prepared to cue. Huge serves, may wish to share unless your feeling piglety.
34 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris Marais

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For cold day cosiness- Cafe Hugo

In the Bastille region this little Bistrot, situated on the inner rim of the Vosges Gardens serves a deliciously rustic French Onion Soup amongst other delights. Squeeze yourself onto a minuscule table, order a quart caraffe of Chianti while you wait and enjoy the animation of Parisian conversations around you. Coffee’s damn fine too.
Tips: Excellent value. Be prepared to brush arms with your neighbors, the intimacy providing opportunity to test your command on the language.
22 Place des Vosges, 75004, Paris

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For a fluffy sensation – Le Soufflé

A soufflé sensory overload! If your a lover of these light fluffy concoctions, indulge yourself by selecting one for each course. From mushroom to cognac, my companions took their imaginary hats off to the Salmon Soufflé, mine had already been on the floor for some time. You can walk it off by climbing the Arch de Triumph stairwell tomorrow.
Tips: Tourists appear to be ushered to the back room. If you’d prefer to be seated up front ask while booking. Booking essential.
36 Rue du Mont, Thabor, Paris (near Place Vendome)

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For a quirky Hi-Tea – Mariage Frères Salon de Thé

Open noon to 7pm, an extensive tea selection ranging from the exotic to mother’s favourite. An extensive menu, we went for the set breakfast. Small pots of scrambled egg, brioche with jam, sushi roles, prawns…an interesting selection with an eye on varying cultural breakfast expectations.
Tips: Top up the kitty. Choose wisely, ask for descriptions. Again, tourists tend to be ushered to the rear. Put your best ‘don’t mess with me’ face on and insist on your preferences if this doesn’t suit. Book an upfront table in advance if necessary.
A number of these Salons scattered across Paris. We tried 30 Rue du Bourg, Tibourg, Paris

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For a spectacular backdrop – Jules Verne

One must visit this restaurant just once in one’s lifetime and we were fortunate to share a lovely friend’s birthday here. Funky chunky up side down plates and exceptionally slender cutlery signify one’s place setting. Delicate complimentary morsels and attentive staff let one know one’s dignified place. The Degustation menus offers one an excellent choice.
Tips: One glass of wine per person with the Degustation menu. One may wish to indulge in a bottle…or two. The ‘Baba’ dessert comes with a choice of liqueur, ask to pour one’s own else one will be singing merrily upon exit, and that simply won’t do!
Tour Eiffel 6 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, Paris

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Bigger Tips:

There’s often a happy hour where favourite cocktails will come at great prices (let’s face it, that’s not hard compared to Australian prices!) along with piles of nibbles. For the truly budget conscious, heaven. Find your fave, preferably with a view of some sort and make it your local watering hole.

The wine is cheap and the house wines surprisingly good! Order a quart or half carafe and save the G&T or cocktails for happy hours.

If on a budget, avoid eateries around any of the squares, major thoroughfares, monuments or signature attractions. It’s down the back streets where you’ll find the hidden gems and authentic fare.

Order a ‘Cafe Gormande’ at dessert time and you may receive a coffee with several mini desserts, an economical way to sample dessert while telling yourself you’ve been ever so virtuous.

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Avoid fussing with your order choices. Usually limited staff and the time required to understand and grasp your request pushes out their busy schedules and leads to frustration for all.

Butter probably won’t come with your Croissant. That’s because the best are already buttery but if you need beurre , be prepared to ask several times. Same with milk for your tea.

Greet and farewell, attempt your best high school French, smile a lot and drop into the conversation that your an Australian. The French seem to be more comfortable with us and that smile will usually win over even the most jaded wait person. We are, after all, equivalent to a guest in their home.

Oh! And don’t ever eat while walking along the street, or in the street for that matter. Ever so gauche in the eyes of the French.

Would love to hear your faves and hints too!

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