AT PLAY

For the home enhancers, the foodies, the wanderers

Studios and shoe strings

Creating a haven in which to withdraw from the frantic pace of the world, relax and re energize is so vital to our well being isn’t it? Hence the ‘Nest’ element of the blog, and the reason for this post, for I’ve just identified, thanks to my newest holiday abode, just how easy it is to create a simple yet elegant studio on a shoestring budget! Perfect for housing a teen, a parent, a B&B or just for you. Your own little haven…your ‘man-shed’…or should that be ‘person‘-shed?

20130804-112413.jpg 20130804-112855.jpgWhereas the studio in Monterosso had only one small avenue of natural light and fresh air, making for a musty, dark abode but saved by the spectacular view from its tiny terrace, this one if full of light and fresh air. Elegant in its simplicity, comfortable and soothing to the soul. Its the white. A white that conjures up visions of crisp white Greek villas against a deep Mediterranean backdrop. Only this one’s on the Italian Riviera.

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Whitewashed ceiling and walls, white tiles, white furnishings, a splash of blue for kitchen cabinetry, simple calico swaths of fabric against the vibrant forest green of the shutters for curtains.

An old fishing boat oar of red white and blue draped across one wall, a hark to village origins. Bed linen of crisp white, cool to sun kissed skins, with just a touch of subtle dusky floral. A bathroom lined in small tiles of the same shutter green blended with a soft cream and thoughtful lighting.

But what takes it from ‘yeah so’ to ‘wow factor’ is the quality of the linens. Huge waffle weave bath sheets (yes we love our toweling but these wrap easily and dry fast!). Bed linen of brightest white and maximum thread count, essential for screaming ‘luxury’. And all finished with just a linger of Durance White Camellia pillow spray and a few strategically placed tea candles (my own little essentials). ‘Sono le cose semplici che contano’ It’s the simplest things that count.
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Corniglia and cactus toes

Cactus!

That’s what I am, cactus! Don’t you love that expression? Just trekked 4k up mountains, past cactus, through olive groves and down dales then back up more mountains to the dear little cliff-top dwelling village of Corniglia. A pathway so well travelled the erratically placed stones are shiny with wear or is that sweat?

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Breathtaking! And I’m not talking view. Though you will see that was quite spectacular by the photos, taken at intervals, for self-assurance really. Over there on that distant mountain, the reward awaits! Of the alcoholic kind.

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Meanwhile, Germans with thick brown ankles, backpacks and ski poles are zooming by. A clutch of teens in thongs (Jandals/Flipflops for the non-Aussies) are literally skipping up the path chattering away without even drawing breath. With no breath to draw of my own I bleat ‘Ciao!’ No niceties today. I pretend I’m Bear Grylls. Invincible. Nope. Not working.

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Stagger over the threshold of what I assume to be the start of the village, thrusting fist in air in defiance, I am champion!!

The rocky song running through my head I look around for a can of Solo to throw over my face and ‘slam down fast’, just to lend weight to triumph. And then I see the sign. ‘Congratulations! Your half way there’.

 

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Was it worth it? Absolutely! Did I reward myself? Yup! With a double raspberry Frappe, don’t really like Solo! The alcohol? Well, that will be my reward for floating down the 450 steps to the train station on the other side of the village without once smugly telling the tourists gasping for breath as they climb heavenward…’Congratulations! Ya half way there mate!’

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Oh Vernazza…how I love thee

Utilizing ancient crumbling cliff top fortifications to stow and revere the dead? Honoring them with the most spectacular view the village has to offer? Keeping their feet dry to be sure. The view from the window of my latest digs, tucked in midway up the Doria Castle, spreads across the whole lower village; its cliff side protection striated with grape vines and olive and fruit groves, tacked on and shackled thanks to dry rock walls held strong by an agricultural history that, day by day is sadly succumbing to abandonment for the more alluring tourist dollar. And right up there at the top, in the most prime real estate, sits again, a cemetery.

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The vista personifies exactly what one would expect of an authentic fishing village. Population 1,000; founded around 1080AD, originally a maritime base, later a fortification against Pirates and with a solid little rock protected harbor full of colorful little boats (and swimmers too, the water’s divine). Just one major thoroughfare, the Via Roma is strung with massive daisy shaped fairy lights and lined with bistrot, bars and pizzerias and the usual touristy lures, paralleled by narrow lane-ways between the multi story, multi colored villas. And then there’s the tiniest beach tucked in right behind the peninsula, access via a cave.

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20130801-102333.jpg20130801-102535.jpgTourists swamp the place by day but most disperse to the bigger villages in the eve leaving room for the dedicated, the locals and the lights of the restaurants lining the harbor to sparkle across water the color of ink.

Vernazza suffered the same fate as Monterosso in the 2011 flash flooding, here a 4 meter deep mud slide all but destroying yet saved by  the strength and character of the locals who simply and steadfastly got on with reparations. You would never know were it not for the engineers working on the water walls above the village given each of the Terre except for Corniglia sit over a watercourse, the sacrifice of nestling between protective cliffs. The locals’ tenacity reminds me of the willful ‘fuck you floods!’ attitude Brisbanites displayed earlier the same year.

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20130801-102731.jpgAs for the color of the octagonal bell tower above the quaint little church off to the side of the square with its slate scalloped dome? It variegates from a rich king island cream at sunrise to a soft dusky rose as twilight settles. Ah! proprio bella!

I love that tower.

It’s chimes shake me awake each morning!

Twice over!

Da bells! Da bells!

Geez!

 

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